The Lynskey PRO GR is possibly the world’s first 6/4 titanium gravel bike. JOM took collection of the bike from the Lynskey factory in late June of 2017. Since then, the Lynskey PRO GR has been raced at events such as the 2017 Red Clay Ramble. In between, it has racked up a ton of training miles aboard multiple wheelsets in 700c and 650b, and with multiple tyre combinations. The review also features a good amount of drone footage.
For those wondering, the PRO GR weighs between 18.8lbs – 19.8lbs (8.5kg – 8.9kg) with pedals, dependent upon wheels, tyres, and other components. In the future, the PRO GR may be the centre of another project… so, watch this space… and please subscribe to the Gravel Cyclist YouTube channel!
Links to stuff in this video:
Lynskey Factory Tour
Mark Lynskey Interview Part 1
Mark Lynskey Interview Part 2
Mark Lynskey Interview Part 3
Lynskey GR250 / 260 Review
Thank you to American Classic, Shimano Road, WTB, Panaracer, Atom Composites and Orange Seal Cycling for wheels, tyres, sealant and components that were an integral part of this review.
Thanks for watching!
Don’t forget to Like the Gravel Cyclist Facebook page, follow G.C. on Instagram and subscribe to our Youtube Channel. We are also on Twitter!
Through watching I learned something new about the dropouts that I really appreciate about the Pro GR. I have ridden the bike for about a month and go on my first race on it tomorrow morning. I find everything on your video to be exact and accurate. Great riding video as well!
Thank You ????
Thank you! I put a lot of effort into the videos, particularly with the drone, as I feel people want to see how the bike looks when it is being ridden.
I am anxiously awaiting the delivery of my Pro GR. You point out helix chain stays and they do in their promo video too, but another owner claimed his did not have them.
I hope mine does.
JOM,
thanks for another great video. Noticing the fork on the Pro Gr being different than the fork on the gr250 you reviewed (3t). The rake is different on those forks by 5mm. Curious how you felt it affected handling? Also, would you say one fork provided more comfort over the other?
John, I would need to swap the fork over to give you an honest answer. I may do that at a later point if I have some review downtime?
From what you said about this being a race bike I expected more aggressive geometry, but this seems to be more of an endurance geometry. Gravel bikes seem to vary quite a lot between CX race derived and endurance derived geometry. Thanks for an interesting video.
Are you going to compare all those wheels and tires at some point? Having used them all on the same bike should improve the comparison.
Tom, to be honest, I didn’t even look at how all of the geometry added up. Rather, how the bike felt to me from my experiences riding it.
I’ve reviewed most of those wheels and tyres, but comparison reviews aren’t really my thing. As it is, reviewing one item at a time takes considerable effort.
It sounds exhausting just swapping that many wheels.
From the presence of this video I hope that means you are feeling better.
Tom, the video and photography from this video were taken towards from the middle to end of 2017, when I wasn’t so knackered! A ton of work swapping out wheels, etc, but I like to be thorough. Basically, this video was assembled from activities spaced over five to six months.
Thanks for the review, Jom!
Tom – I have the Pro GR. I would characterize it as a “Gravel” race bike. It has nice low BB drop so it’s stable and corners well. The head tube is pretty slack, which of course means the steering is a bit sluggish. But they designed the frame such that you’d use a shorter stem, as they do with MTB bikes nowadays. The head tube length, at least on my size small, is short and allows you to get aggressively low. And then there’s the wheelbase, which is longer and thus more stable and less of a turn-on-a-dime style of ride.
You are right in that it’s not a CX aggressive frame. Personally, I have a CX race bike that is twitchy and fast with a steeper head angle ad short chainstays. And then the Pro GR for long gravel races (which I LOVE).
If you were to want a single quiver CX/Gravel bike, I’d look at the Santa Cruz Stigmata, Foundry Flyover, Spooky Gas Mask, etc. Hope that helps.
Jeff, great summary of the PRO GR. I should probably mention some of those factors in a future review, but I generally impart my experience by how it felt to me. Regardless, thank you for chiming in! Stigmata and Flyover, both killer machines… haven’t seen the Spooky.
Thanks Jeff, but I’m actually coming from the touring direction and this bike is at the aggressive end of what I’d consider.
Tom, I feel the GR260 would be a better fit for you. Not sure what size you need, but take a look at the geometry of that rig. Good luck!
Very insightful review. Keep up the good work GC.
Damn, where can I sign up for this job, JOM? I mean, having Bicycle companies throwing gorgeous GRAVEL bikes at me to review, tyre manufacturers lining up at my door begging me to test their latest products. Research Techs and engineers thinking “Who will we get to test this amazing new groupset, components etc……. I know!, We’ll get JOM from gravel cyclist.com to do it”….am I jealous?, You betcha!
Haha thanks mate. I firmly believe the manufacturers have recognised I’m a passionate bloke who genuinely loves this type of cycling, and tries my best to review the product in a fair and unbiased, but thorough manner. I feel my reviews are more than just babbling in front of a camera or riding around a car park!
You should see what I have coming in the review queue… more later!
Good day
Your review of the GR 250 and the Pro were excellant. Would the frame size be a size small, as was the GR 250 you reviewed? I am very interested in the GR 260 which shares the same geometry as the Pro GR. To me your setup looks aggressive as a recreational enthusiast. I am barely 5’6″ and feel the size small frame would work. Would you please disclose the stem length you used during the review and your height? It would provide me a better understanding towards selecting a frame size and the setup adjustments required. Thanks!
Hello there. I am approximately 5’11”, 32″ inseam and use a 110mm stem. As you can see from the videos, the bike fits me perfectly. With that said, bike fit is a personal thing and my aggressive setup is not for everyone. I am not a qualified bike fitter but I’m going to assume the size small would work pretty well for you. I suggest you ask this question of a proper bike fitter. Good luck!
JOM, thank you very much for responding to my question regarding frame and body height. You have provided me the full confidence to go ahead and order a size small GR 260. I’ll stick with the 70mm stem, but unlike you, I’ll set it up with the full stack height.
When ordering direct from the manufacture, we are buying sight unseen. We compare the geometry of our present bike’s in a like category and hope for the best. That is the only tool available to the purchaser, unless we are fortunate to stumble upon an honest bike reviewer, who is willing to share themselves with their fans:) Once again thank you for your quick response. Feeling super regarding my choice now!
#Puluke, I hope you don’t mind my saying, but I would be cautious putting that short of a stem (70mm) on this bike. It’s been my experience that a too-short stem significantly increases the likelihood of speed wobbles, due to distributing your weight too far back. Going from 90 to 100mm made a big difference for me with my confidence on fast descents. Just my two cents, though. Of course you at 5’6″ will have different parameters than me at 5’11”. I hope you enjoy your new ride!
Hey AK_Ben, I worked out the stack and reach on my road and cross bikes, (which fit me very well) and an 80mm stem puts me only 2mm shorter then the road and cross bikes. If it does not work I can swap the 80mm for a 70mm stem. Thanks for stepping into the thread.
Hey there,
thanks for the insightful review. I wonder though: you mentioned that a size S fits you perfectly at 5’11”… according to the Lynskey page you would be on the taller side for a Medium Large. Are their sizing recommendations that far off?
I’m 5’9” and was going for a Medium Large. You have me confused…
MM, those charts are general recommendations. Sizing is a personal fit – my fit is not for everyone – I have a very aggressive position on the bike. I base much of my fit on top tube and head tube length, and I ride the smallest frame I can get away with. So, best to consult an experienced bike fitter if you have questions about this.
Thanks for the feedback, JOM! Based on your input I went for an M instead of an ML. I am excited. The waiting time till it gets here will test my patience, though.
Good day Folks
Presently in the waiting phase for my GR 250. I have some time to decide on either a 700C or a 650b wheel set. I have a cross bike and run 32mm tires. (My cross bike is limited to 32mm tires, or risk damaging the chain stays). I’m thinking that I should build my gravel bike with a 650b wheel set and mount 2.1 inch tires on it. In reality I’ll be riding 60-70% rough, beat up paved paths on my gravel bike. JOM watching your GR 250 and GR 260 Pro videos, you are well experienced in wheel and tire selection. What would you? Any others want to chime in, please do as I would appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks
Puluke
I’m 5 10 and ride a M/L Lynskey road and Cross bike. Fit perfectly
I’ve put almost a thousand miles on my Pro GR so far and I think your review nails it. I was on another older Lynskey CX bike prior to the GR and my road bike is also Ti, so I’m very familiar with how Ti feels. To say that I could tell a difference between my old Lynskey and the new Pro GR would be an understatement. I was floored by the difference and, quite frankly, surprised (I moved wheels/tires/drivetrain/cockpit over from my old bike). The GR just feels like every effort you put into the pedal is transferred to the ground. I have to believe that it’s the little things adding up to a big difference…6/4, thru-axle, fork, geometry, all come together to create one sweet ride. I’m not a racer (got the Pro GR frame/fork during one of Lynskey’s “special deals”) and I was worried that the GR might be too stiff for me, but it is not at all. To me, it walks the fine line between stiff and that lovely Ti ride that we all love.
Since most of us will never be able to compare the 250/260 to the Pro GR, wondering if you can tell the difference, and what those differences are? With all things being equal, curious if the 6/4 Ti can be felt and if there is a downside of choosing one over the other? Thanks! Nice review of a mighty nice bike.
Hi Tod, from my experience with the GR250/GR260 and PRO GR, I feel the PRO GR is stiffer in areas such as the bottom bracket and head tube. Hard to measure those things really, but that’s my perception. If I stood on the ground with the GR250 alongside me, then attempted to load up a lot of my body weight onto the crank / pedal, I could see and feel a little flex in the bottom bracket area – which isn’t a bad thing. With the PRO GR, it didn’t budge when I repeated those actions.
Aside from that and my perception of the front end of the PRO GR, the 6/4 frame may be a tad lighter – hard to tell as I never stripped either of my review bikes to bare and weighed – but 6/4 has always been a little lighter than a 3/2.5 frameset. Finally, and this is where placebo comes in – the PRO GR just looks more aggressive and racier, and I love that about the bike. I’m especially pleased Lynskey kept the GR250/GR260’s rear end with the PRO GR, that is one of the biggest selling points to me – massive tyre clearance. Most other manufacturers don’t even think about this.
I will say I preferred the cable routing of the original GR250, which routed the rear brake cable beneath the top tube, but that is a hindrance if you need to shoulder the bike… which is something I never do. Again, personal preference. The only improvement I could make on the PRO GR would be to have a POLISHED VERSION!!! Now that would be amazing… as it is, I love the PRO GR so much, I have arranged to keep the review bike. I think that says a lot.
Does anyone actually buy a Lynskey that isn’t one of their “special deals”? It’s like Rudy Project, don’t ever buy something from them at full pop, a week later it will be 50% off. Glad you enjoy your new ride, seems like it is well sorted.
Great review I’ve been racing on a Lynskey ProCross for the past three years Lynskey knows their stuff. The ProCross is great for the races that have some single track and, like the PRO GR, is stiff and comfortable for those 12 hour rides. Keep up the excellent work with this site. Thanks.S
Thanks! Out of curiosity, how is the tyre clearance on the ProCross?
42mm I run MSO 40mm with plenty of room to spare for mud during wet rides like the Rasputitsa
Lynskey has it right on so many levels.
Hi thanks for the great review. Did you weigh the frame and fork? I’d be interested to know if the GR 250 weighed more or less than the Pro GR.
Thanks!
Scott, one of my guys has a size medium PRO GR. He doesn’t have the exact weight handy, but around 3lbs / 1.3 – 1.4kg. The fork I will have to trust Lynskey on, haven’t had the time to disassemble the size small bike I have here. Sorry.
Thanks!
I’ve done 195 mile road rides on the ProCross. Lynskey certainly makes versatile bikes. Would like to test ride a Pro GR to compare frames. Similar tubing but vastly different geometry.
Good day Folks
Sorry for the dual post, but I forgot to include that where I live in Canada, we have minimum 6 and occasionally 8 months of winter. It is unnerving and their is a high probability of crashing, when breaking through snow on narrow tires!
Presently in the waiting phase for my GR 250. I have some time to decide on either a 700C or a 650b wheel set. I have a cross bike and run 32mm tires. (My cross bike is limited to 32mm tires, or I risk damaging the chain stays). I’m thinking that I should build my gravel bike with a 650b wheel set and mount 2.1 inch tires on it. In reality I’ll be riding 60-70% rough, beat up paved paths, and the remainder on gravel, single and double track in summer. It will be then used on snow and ice in winter. JOM watching your GR 250 and GR 260 Pro videos, you are well experienced in wheel and tire selection. What would you choose? Any others want to chime in, please as I would appreciate your thoughts. As I mentioned above, we experience 6-8 months of winter. It can snow any month of the year. This bike will replace my cross bike as one of my winter rides. My other winter bike is a Fat bike. I also have a road and mountain bike which I ride only in summer.The Gravel bike will be ridden all year in drastically changing conditions. So 650b or 700c?
Thanks for taking the time to read this post and hopefully share your thoughts.
Sorry I should have said waiting for my GR 260 not GR 250.
If you will be able to swap wheels with your other bikes and thus ride 700c if you want, then getting the 650b would seem to be the most versatile choice to me. Depends on brake and axle compatibility — The fun of changing standards.
I’ve got around 1000 miles on my pro GR and have two 700c wheelsets, one for training with rambler/ravager 40’s, the other carbon rims/I9 hubs with wtb resolutes 42. I also have a 650b wheelset with thunderburt 2.1’s. I don’t have snow where I live, but do have a lot of loose soft sand. I wouldn’t want to race on the 650’s but I love them for riding on the sandy desert roads. They are so much easier to handle in the sand than the 40’s or 42’s. So 650 or 700? For what you described I say 650.
OK, got around to taking a pic of my Pro GR. https://www.dropbox.com/s/p4exdcemtouotd5/bike.jpg?dl=0
Weight: 21.3lbs with pedals, cages, and a computer mount. A bit portly, and it’s mostly due to the frame. A similar Exploro 3T Team weighs in around 20lbs with cages and pedals, which is about right based on the weights of the frames themselves (~1.5lbs difference).
In case you are wondering, here’s the build, and I’m 5’9″ with a 31″ inseam.
– Pro GR Frame, size Small, Pro GR fork
– Shimano DuraAce 9120 Hydro Mechanical shifters, 9120 brake calipers, XTR Rotors
– Shimano DuraAce 9100 FD, Ultegra 8000 GS RD
– Shimano Ultegra 8000 Cassette, 11/34
– Thomson Elite Setback SeatPost, Thomson X4 90mm Stem, Ritchey Streem bars (40cm, aluminum, 78mm reach)
– Rotor 2InPower Cransket, 34/50 Rotor NoQ rings, Rotor BSA30 Ceramic BB
– HED Belgium Plus Disc wheels, 28H, White Industries CLD CenterLock hubs
– Challenge Gravel Grinder Tires, 38C
– Wiliams SLC Carbon Saddle
– Time XC 6 Pedals
– Arundel carbon cages
– Cane Creek 110 Headset
Nice looking rig! 21.3lbs isn’t portly. A lot of us started off on steel road bikes with friction downtube shifters, that were heavier!
Wonder why you opted for small size frame vs medium.. I’m 5’8” with 31” inseem, looks like both you and I should be getting size M.
Also, size M is within a few mm on pretty much every dimension within my Canyon Endurace and older Cannondale Synapse which are not an agressive bikes at all..
I’m not looking for agressive postion, but all day long comfort on some fire roads and gravel trails.
I understand JOM has somewhat unusal fit preference, but what was your motivation?
Thanks in advance
Hello there, thanks for the question.
I always make my selection based on the top tube length, followed by the head tube length. I prefer somewhere around 54cm centre to centre, but I can happily ride a bike with a smidge shorter top tube, sans issues. Additionally, I like to ride the smallest frame I can get away with.
Thank you sir.
Another question.. In your video review you said front axel is 15mm, on lynskey website it says 12mm which one is it? I have hard time to find XC wheelset with 12mm front axel. Is there any you can recommend?
When I reviewed the bike, the fork designed a 15mm thru-axle, which is the best if you ask me. If they’ve changed, that is disappointing news. As you point out, XC wheelsets are difficult to find with a 12mm axle unless you can swap the wheel’s end cap or axle, etc.
Also, check out this adapter that I often use for reviews when I have a 12mm front thru-axle bike and a 15mm wheelset (if it works, it will depend mostly on your fork).
https://www.gravelcyclist.com/bicycle-tech/review-pdxti-12mm-to-15mm-thru-axle-adapter/
Jom, another question.. I did ordered GR PRO in medium size after talking to my fitter, it’s very close to my Canyon Endurace road bike. But that’s not the question 🙂
The question is, does GR PRO have enough clearence between crank arm and chainstay for Pioneer power meter which is 8mm thin or thick.
https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Cycle+Sports/Power+Meters/SBT-LT80+SERIES+POWER+METER
Thanks in advance
Jom, and others who own and ride the Gravel Pro – is the vertical compliance still pretty good? Does the bike still have that springy ti feel to it, or is it much more muted?
I had two ti bikes by an east coast custom builder about 15 yrs ago, and I hated them. Both felt dead like an old aluminum cannondale, so I sold them.
I’m 190 lbs, pretty strong rider, I like spirited riding, but I’m not into hardcore racing anymore. I’d use this gravel bike for 50-100 mile gravel “races”. By reach and stack, I’d go for an ML or L Lynskey gravel bike. Would that big a frame be more flexy under me? Do I get the 270 or the Pro…..? Tough decision. Does your Pro beat you up after a few hours?
Hi Jom,
Aye expect to receive my PRO GR – 2020 model with internal cable routing next month October 2018. I am so excited and have watched your video many times already. This is my first time to own a Gravel bike and im so excited to ride it very soon.
Excellent! Hope you enjoy it! My original PRO GR is #2 off the production line.