Press Release: Lynskey Performance releases the GR260 Gravel Bike

“Looking for a bike that allows you the freedom to roam almost anywhere without adhering to the rules of traditional cycling categories? The GR 260 provides the maximum level of riding freedom and hand-built frame strength. With adventure oriented geometry and loads of tire clearance, this model blurs all the lines, conquering any manner of rough roads, gravel and mixed surfaces.”

“The GR 260 features a 1 ¾” biaxially ovalized downtube rounding out a butted, 3AL-2.5V aerospace grade titanium tubeset. Added to an adventure geometry that is designed for the rider to be in the cockpit rather than on the bike, and clearance for 700c x max 45 or 27.5 x max 2.1″ tires, this model is capable of taking riders over any variety of terrain in all-day comfort.”

“Clearance for 700c x 45 or 27.5 x 2.1 tires allows you unlimited choices when matching tires to your riding style. Unique “plate style” chainstay design allows ample tire and chainring clearance without having to extend the chainstays to lengths that create poor performance.”

“Cable routing that accepts either hydraulic or mechanical disc brake lines.”

“Only Lynskey offers a proprietary rear dropout design that accepts either a 9mm Quick Release or a 12mm Thru axle.”

New dropout pictured on the PRO GR. Photo by Gravel Cyclist.

“Replaceable rear derailleur hanger.”

“Electronic shifting ready: Shimano Di2, SRAM Etap (removable guides).”

“Rack and Fender mounts are standard.”

“Our Lynskey GR PRO front fork has also been specifically designed for the unique gravel performance parameters of strength and comfort.”

“Cold-Worked, Tapered Headtube for improved weight savings.”

“Like all of our bikes, the GR 260 is 100% hand built by our artisan craftsmen in Chattanooga, Tennessee.”

FRAMES FROM $1,995 – MSRP $2,950. COMPLETES FROM $3,295 – MSRP $5,519.

Lynskey Performance

48 comments on “Press Release: Lynskey Performance releases the GR260 Gravel Bike

  1. I like it!
    Esp the clearance for 700C tires.
    But 435mm chainstays, is that considered on the shorter side of things?
    6AL/4V Ti, isn’t that considered very stiff?
    Would be very interesting to test ride this machine.
    What is the approximated weight for the frame (56) + fork?

    In a few years we’ll see where all this is heading.

    Personally i have high hopes for lighter and better suspension forks.
    Perhaps we’ll see some company playing around more with geo?

    Would be a blast if manufactures could get their thums out and release chainrings more suitable for fatter tires and an FD cage that goes along with smaller chainrings.

    1. You are confusing the GR260 with the PRO GR. The GR260 is constructed from 3/2.5 Ti. Please see my review of the GR250 (https://www.gravelcyclist.com/videos/video-review-lynskey-gr250-titanium-gravel-bike-with-shimano-ultegra-di2/). The GR260 frames are almost identical aside from the enhanced dropouts and cleaned up routing for internalized cabling.

      I am currently reviewing the 6/4 PRO GR bike.

      The tyre clearance on the GR260 and PRO GR blows everything else away. My review of the GR250 covers that in detail.

      1. Hola JOM,

        i think i rather read at Lynskeys info and talked about the PRO GR, so i referred to that model but forgot to write that. Sure, the bikes look interesting.
        I would like to test both the 260 and the PRO GR. I ride Open UP now.

        A bit off topic here, but i am more keen to see what happens in a few years.

        Many bikes are very alike and the copies of UP frame is getting more all the time.

        Next thing is clearance for wider tires and a better executed design of a suspension fork. I am sure we will also see more differenes in geometries in due time.

        There is alot to say really, not only about frames and forks, but also info i have received from Rotor, Easton aso.

        What annoys me is that the new cranksets with wider chainline (45-46mm), that for sure would be great for gravel, none of the brands will make micro compact or larger tooth chainrings.

        This is really disturbing. This was obviously because CX and gravel to constitutes such a small batch of sales, that it’s not economic.

        Just look at Shimano, their FD cages are not working good with anything below 46T large chainring and they have no crankset with a longer axle allowing a wider chainline.
        I also think that due to the economics around this, they try to steer us towards 1*11.

        Or else a special groupset could be made from Shimano, Sram and Campa.
        Gravel and CX seems to be a grey area.

        1. Thus far, I know of at least two Open UP style bikes that have copied the chainstay design – the new Ibis gravel bike and the Norco Search. You will gain weight riding a Ti frame like the GR260 or PRO GR, but the durability of those frames cannot be beaten. Ditto on the tyre clearance, it is the biggest there is without going to a mountain bike frame (which I have done in the past with drop bars). By the way, we’ve been saying for years the manufacturers need to offer bigger tyre clearance… that also factors into mud clearance.

          I expect suspension designs will improve but they are not for everyone. A lot of that will depend on where you ride and the sort of riding you do.

          Have you tried Di2? I have used the original 10-speed Ultegra Di2 with an XTR 42 / 28 crankset – perfect shifting. The Di2 front derailleurs have a huge amount of power.

          With the increasing interest in gravel and cyclocross, we may see more development in the area of groupsets. As it is, SRAM has their 1x system which is great for cyclocross – some people love the 1x on gravel, but I like the choice of two chainrings and a much tighter cassette.

  2. I ordered the 2017 GR 250 3 weeks ago. Lynskey offered 50% off MSRP. One day later the 250 was not available as it has been replaced with the 2018 GR 260 which was only 40% off. I think the two bikes are practically identical.

  3. JOM-

    Anxiously awaiting your review of the Pro GR. I have one being built by Lynskey at the moment. Really wondering how it rides, and looking forward to using it at Crusher/Tushar next year with some smaller gearing (34/30 didn’t cut it on the Crush climb!!).

    – Did you find the steering sharp enough with the slacker head tube angle, 50mm offset fork and a shorter stem?
    – How short of a stem did you go with on your test model (a small I believe you said, which is the same size I ordered).
    – Did you have any pedal strikes with the very low BB drop of 7.75cm? Granted you aren’t racing crits on this bike, but wow is that low.
    – Does a 50T large chainring fit? I was told by Lynskey that is would.

    1. Jeff, that review will be a little while… the Orbea Terra review is posting soon, then the PRO GR.

      All I can say is, you won’t be disappointed.

      To answer your questions – I am using a 110mm stem with the size small frame. No pedal strikes. I’m running a 46T chainring, but I do not see why a 50T wouldn’t work. My first ride on the PRO GR was in the mountains of Tennessee in rain and sludge. It handled as it if was on a rail – I’ve got plenty of footage of that ride that will be used in the review.

      I don’t want to spoil the review too much – there is no BB flex on the 6/4 Ti rig. It is ideally suited to someone looking for the ultimate performance Ti gravel bike – very powerful riders – or bigger riders.

      As for Crusher, I had a 30 x 32 low gear and wanted a 30 x 36 on the Col de Crush! I loved the race but it was easily Top 3 for hardest gravel races I have ever done. The altitude and climbing were difficult, but the views, amazing! Even though I live in Florida most of the year, I want to return and crush my 2017 time… kinda hard to acclimate for that race here 🙂

      1. Thoughts on that GR 260 for a big guy (6’2″ x 255lbs)? They have hit a very competitive price and even offer zero interest financing! For comparison, I ride a Trek Domane SL6 disc as my roadie and a Fuji Jari as my graveller. Love the Domane to death, Actually like the Jari too but starts to beat me up at 40 miles or so on our rather smoothish gravel in North Texas. Also pretty flexy BB when I push it hard.

        Thanks so much!

    1. In no particular order:

      Crusher in the Tushar
      Iron Cross
      Dirty Kanza 200
      Land Run 100 (only because of the horrendous weather in 2017).

  4. Jom since I am the newbie here what is the difference frame wise between the now GR260 and the Cooper CX. I see they have the bare frames on sale for $1295 that includes the Cane Creek 40 headset and the Lynskey Endurance Endurance fork. You can get the pro carbon cyclocross #4 fork with axle for $190. I don’t know wqhether the carbon fork is worth the money but guessing yes. I also don’t know if it’s better to buy the whole bike with it’s specs or buy your own components. I don’t think I will ever need Di2 as I have never owned Dura Ace on my road bikes. Any thoughts or help would be appreciate.

    Thanks
    Larry

    1. Larry, not intimately familiar with the Cooper, you are best calling Lynskey with that question.

      Di2 is the only groupset to ride. Once you go electronic, you won’t be going back. Di2 works in every condition, absolutely flawless.

  5. Are all derailleur cable guides removable on the GR260? I heard the Pro GR is actually heavier than the GR260, is that correct?

    1. Kev, I haven’t seen the latest GR260 in person, you are best asking that question directly to Lynskey.

      Re: the PRO GR, I have one for review but without pulling apart the bike, I have no idea what the frame weighs. Historically, 6/4 Ti is lighter than 3/2.5.

    2. My Pro GR frame just arrived. A size small frame (not including fork), but including seatpost collar and rear 142 thru-axle, weighs 4.375 pounds. That’s about 1.75lbs more than a 3T Exploro Team carbon frame (which I’ve ridden extensively, and while cool and fairly light, it’s fragile in my opinion).

      The cable guides are not removable on the Pro GR, but it’s well thought out cable routing with a full cable run from the lever to the rear derailleur, and 80% of the way to the front derailleur. It looks really good, and I like the fact there’s no cable stops/tensioners on the downtube near the headtube.

      I had it drilled for Di2, but with my Rotor 3d+ 30mm crank, it would be really tight routing the di2 wire around the crank spindle inside the 68mm theaded BB shell. I would expect it would rub. If you have a 30mm crank and want to run Di2, either buy a 24mm crank, go mechanical, or splurge on SRAM Etap hydro wifli. I’m going to build it up with Ultegra mechanical hydro ST-8020 levers and flat-mount brakes.

      Looking forward to Jom’s review as it will be a month or two before I get my shifters and get the bike built.

      1. Jeff, I look forward to seeing how your PRO GR turns out. One of my guys has purchased one too, mostly as a replacement for an Exploro. We featured his bike recently, which needed a repair after a seatstay cracked when he fell over in soft sand! A bit too fragile.

  6. Incredible that you cracked the Exploro. My UP has had two really nasty crashes, not a problem at all.
    Was it the Ltd version of Exploro you guys damaged?
    It has another carbon. The stiffer the carbon, the more brittle it is. But you can make the tube walls thinner. Maybe not the best idea on a gravel bike (as it seems….)

  7. JOM, i am not that good in English, but i’ff try to describe my second crash.
    I was biking on flat tarmac, took a left turn in quite high speed. My front tire dropped all air pressure in seconds and i thought i was going to crash. But after apex of corner, it was real nasty gravel. The bike hit that second and flipped. I flew and landed on shoulder and took two turns while fixed to the bike. Suddenly i stopped rolling but the bike flew and hit a steel rail beside the road. Terrible pain but i went up and checked the bike first thing.
    This was a really early Saturday morning, so i just understood i had a nice walk about 18 kilo meter before i was home. Not wanting to roll the bike as tire was totally inflated. Once home i washed the bike and inspected it carefully. I did not see anything that suggested a crack or even a deep scratch. Untill this day nothing, not a single problem.
    My first crash was in the winter. I hit a patch of ice and the front wheel lost grip in an instant. This time, i slided right into a ditch. The thin ice cracked so half my head and shoulder was soaked.
    The bike had slided about 12-15mm. I inspected the bike this time to. I could see absolutelly nothing. Only real bad paint damage is when chain has jumped too many times inboard, towards BB.
    This is a standard orange UP.
    IMO, this bike is a kick ass bike.
    I have made a few small silly crashes not worth mentioning. These two were the worst.
    Both these times i cracked a helmet.
    So, if your buddy had his Ltd version explorer cracked from falling on sand, then i am really happy i never bought the Ltd version.
    I just know that all these lighter bikes uses more stiff carbon and thinner tubing walls.
    The cheaper uses more layers to achieve higher stiffness. But this also makes them (as it obviously seems) more sturdy.
    I guess when we ride gravel, we come back to that silly state as a happy kid riding his/ hers BMAX high and low. Atleast me, i sneak in to every god damn small trail or road i have just passed by on my road bikes.
    Needless to say, but those bikes stand here in my 1 room flat as clothing hangers.
    Perhaps the most expensive.
    Buy standard and not limited!
    Or? What do you guys say?

      1. Lots of errors and spelling errors, you should have EDIT availble for us, idiots.
        For instance, the bike slided 12-15 meter, not mm 😀

  8. I am wondering which would best suit me. Which to buy. The 2018 Gr260, frameset only, (financial reasons) or the 2017 Pro GR complete reduced for being last yrs model. 105 and mechanical brakes but I have a set of hydraulics I can swap later. Please help with any info you may think of.

    1. I have the 2017 Pro GR. Super happy with it. If you plan to race competitively, buy the Pro. If you don’t, or maybe just a casual grinder or two, you could go either way. If budget is paramount, buy the 260. It will be just fine.

      1. I only do about 5 or 6 local grinders a year but for fun only. I was leaning more towards the Pro then read more about how working with grade 5 titanium is even harder. Makes me just wonder if I need to stick to the 260 with the grade of titanium that everybody else uses. I do like the shape of the top and downtube better on the Pro but don’t want to choose based on looks for this bike.

      2. What Jeff said. Mrs K-Dogg of the GC crew podium’d at Dirty Kanza 200 this year on a GR250 / GR260. Either of these bikes will get the job done…

        With that said, I am getting close to producing the video review of the PRO GR.

        1. So I wouldn’t be dissapointed with either one. Thanks for the replies guys. I was worried about the welding from reading that the grade of titanium used for the Pro Gr is so much more difficult to work with, but I suppose buying direct from Lynskey I won’t have a problem with warranty. I will be looking for your review. Thanks for those, I enjoy reading all your blogs!!

  9. I am anxious to pull the trigger on either the PRO GR260 6/4 Ti bike or the GR 2260 3/2.5 bike, You mention that the 6/4 frame may be better suited to really strong or bigger riders. Would this imply that a smaller, lighter rider like me (5’7″ /185 lbs – size small Lynskey sizing) would find the 6/4 frame to be uncomfortably stiff? Can you comment on the observed ride quality difference between the two frames? Another consideration for me is frame lateral stiffness under loaded touring, something that the early ti frames sorely lacked. Would the 6/4 frame help in terms of lateral stiffness, while remaining comfortably vertically complaint?

      1. Hi Jom, I’m waiting on the Pro Gr I recently ordered. Size m/l , I weigh 200lbs and 5’10”. I am seriously stoked about this bike and wanted to know more about it from you since you recently reviewed it. Please send me the link to your video. I’m concerned with comfort and how “brittle” it may be. I hear phenomenal things about Lysnkey so I don’t doubt their craftsmanship, just curious to know more info since there are no legitimate reviews out yet(that I know of). I’d also would like to know the answer to Ken Arnett’s question please. Cheers

        1. Elix, I am about 50% through producing the video review of the PRO GR. If all goes to plan, it will be online Friday.

          From my experiences with the bike, I think you have chosen well. More soon.

  10. Lynskey PRO GR bike? Tell me what the pluses and minuses are. What would you do differently?
    What did you compare it to?
    Other test rides or bikes you ride, or have ridden?
    What is the difference in weight and ride quality vs the 3.2 Ti version? Or even a not fragile carbon gravel bike?
    Vertical and lateral stiffness?
    Acceleration and braking?
    I watched the Lynskey video on finish choices, anything to add?
    Would it be better or worse with the Chris King t47 BB? Too stiff?
    I am 6’1” 168 pounds.
    I hate aluminum for its ride quality: too stiff, wears too easy, denting…
    I do not like feeling like I am riding a jack hammer.
    I have a Litespeed Vortex from about 25 yrs ago also have a too small for me Obed.
    Maybe trade in the Obed, for a gravel 6/4 or 2/3.
    Or just buy a Trek with their proprietary front and rear in frame suspension like their Domane? Not crazy about the press fit B.B. though.
    What tires do you guys really use and how easy is it to get them and cost?
    Any clear winner or looser in tires?
    Thank you

    1. Craig, my review of the PRO GR is filmed, I just need to prepare the voice over and edit the video. Some of your questions will be answered there – I don’t like to make comparisons to bikes. I leave the readers / viewers to figure that out for themselves.

      Other bikes reviewed in the past year and a half – all on the site – Parlee Chebacco, Niner RLT 9 RDO, GR250 (superceded by the GR260), Orbea Terra and Litespeed T5G. Both of the Lynskeys I have reviewed feature the brushed finish. A great finish, holds up very well.

      I really use the Panaracer Gravelking GK SK the most. Best all-round gravel tyre going in 700c. I have many tyre reviews on the site.

      Thanks!

  11. I don’t want to impose my answers so feel free to delete if not ok to add my opinion.
    To Craig Brayn. I am 5’5” and weigh around 140. If the Pro Gr is not too stiff for me, I would guess it is not for you either. The ride quality is unbelievable. I was riding an alluminun CX bike before the Pro Gr. Only have two rides on the Lynskey and already know I don’t want to ride anything else. My husband got a carbon CX bike at the same time I got the Lynskey and his weighs 19lbs in a size M. My Lynskey is a size S and weighs the same as his but I weigh them as complete bikes and loaded. Even though his bike is lighter, mine is just as fast. His is a race bike too. I am able to keep speed on descents while he has to slow down a bit with his higher bb height I guess.
    I just know I haven’t been as happy with a bike purchase since my first full suspension mtb. In fact I will now go to Lynskey for future bike purchases, even if they make me wait for it. 🙂

  12. i have a Lynskey Pro Cross cyclocross bike and a friend of mine said it is OK to use a Mavic Crossmax 27.5 wheel. i told him I am not sure about that because I have just used a Mavic wheel 700c. Does anybody have experience about this subject?

    1. The best way really is to experiment… or send an email to Lynskey with your question. Sorry, no experience with the Pro Cross.

  13. Bringing up an old thread, I guess, but what the heck…
    Just ordered a GR260 with Ultegra Di2 build. Really looking forward to it. Sold my 2016 Diverge Expert X1. Love Di2 and the double up front with the tighter spacing in back. I am absolutely willing to pay the weight penalty for the ti over carbon, as well. Plan to use my Stan’s Avion Team wheels on the new bike to mitigate some of the weight penalty.
    JOM, coming from the 700×35 g-one Schwalbe’s, what would you recommend, tire-wise? I am thinking of running 700×38 GravelKings. Sound like a good choice for rides that tend to include a few miles of tarmac before I get to the dirt?
    Thanks!

    1. Hi, i just wanted to ask if anybody mentioned any flex the rear end since Lynskey changed The Design from gr 250 to 260 ? I am curious , because they remodeld it again for The 270. thanks a lot up Front.
      Greetings
      Dom

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